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On my first trip to London in 1971, I was a 21-year-old backpacker clutching a copy of Europe on 5 Dollars a Day, sleeping in threadbare B&Bs and dining on grocery-store bread and cheese. Today, $5 won’t even buy a pint of beer at a pub in one of the world’s more expensive tourist destinations. As those cooped up by COVID-19 start traveling internationally again, London is bracing for a tourist invasion. Hotel and restaurant prices have been rising accordingly, but wallet-watching American visitors can still experience the best of the city without going over budget. Here are tips gathered on two dozen visits to one of my favorite cities. (Prices quoted are based on the exchange rate with the British pound, about $1.25)
1. Go off-season.
In 2019, before the pandemic, almost 22 million visitors descended on London, according to the Visit Britain tourism office. Family vacationers swarm in summer, and December brings shoppers and holiday festivities. Consider a visit when the city is calmer and airfares are lower. Hotel rates and airfares dip January through March, but the weather can be unpleasantly damp and cold in winter. My advice: Travel in September, October, November or April (except around Easter). And keep your travel dates flexible to find the best airfare; prices can vary from one day to another.
Ready to go? Download these handy free apps.
Visit London: A mobile city guide including an events calendar and ideas for things to do.
Transport for London Oyster: Manage your Oyster card (for the Tube and buses) on the fly. Use TfL Go or Citymapper London to map your routes.
Heathrow Express: Find up-to-date timetables and buy tickets between the airport and the city.
2. Book lodging well in advance.
Hotels in central London average about $175 in low season, according to the Statista data-gathering firm. But those close to tourist attractions run $275 and up.
You’ll do well to reserve weeks or, preferably, months ahead, and to take some time to compare rates on hotel websites with those on booking sites such as Expedia, hotels.com and booking.com.
One well-located, affordable area to consider for lodging is Sussex Gardens near Paddington Station, where you’ll find rows of pillared London townhouse B&Bs and hotels. For rates under $100 at slow times look at Mitre House Hotel and Europa House Hotel.
Other reasonably priced hotels can be found in Bloomsbury near the British Museum, Victoria near Victoria Station, Islington, Kensington and newly fashionable East London.
Airbnb and Vrbo apartments are often priced lower, but for a first visit, I’d recommend a hotel or B&B that includes a full English breakfast in its rates and whose staff can answer questions, make dinner reservations and otherwise direct you.