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An active 14,410-foot stratovolcano dominates the horizon of Washington State’s South Cascade range. From Seattle and nearby towns, this snow-gilded giant — looming some 7,000 feet over a hundred-odd surrounding mountains — seems impossibly huge. But you can actually visit the majestic Mount Rainier, the stunning star attraction at Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP), which was established in 1899.
MRNP, at 369 square miles, is relatively compact compared to its Pacific Northwest counterparts. Prized for its wonderful hiking trails, the park “is surprisingly accessible to those who are just looking for scenic drives or nice picnics and strolls in less-visited locations,” says Terry Wildy, the park’s chief of interpretation, education and volunteers.
It’s also home to remarkably diverse terrain, notes Mary Skjelset, coauthor of Hiking Mount Rainier National Park (Falcon Guides), who describes “lush rainforest, rocky alpine ecosystems, massive old growth that towers over silty rivers, subalpine meadows that explode in summer with color, and the lenticular clouds that cap the summit.”
On a map, the mountain resembles an avalanche lily with glacial petals jutting out in all directions. That’s fitting, since the park ranks among America’s best places to view wildflowers. (The Visit Rainier tourism board recommends these 10 hikes to soak up the splendor in the grass.)
You might also see marmots, black bears, elk, mountain goats and tawny cougars — and wolverines, which have just returned after a century. Bald eagles and spotted owls soar here, too, and listen for the buzz of tiny calliope hummingbirds.
Location: 82 miles southeast of Seattle, on the western slope of the Cascade range
Acreage: 236,381
Highest peak: Mount Rainier (14,410 feet)
Miles of trails: 275
Main attractions: Wildflowers, old-growth forests, wonderful hiking, dramatic alpine views, stunning scenic drives
Entry fee: $15 for hikers and bikers, $30 per car, $55 for an annual pass. Rainier also accepts the America the Beautiful Senior Pass, which costs people 62 and up $20 for a year or $80 for a lifetime. Younger folks can pay $80 per year for the same unlimited access.
When to go
This is really a summer playground. The park’s Nisqually entrance is the only one accessible by car year-round. The rest of the park opens to vehicles as warmer weather clears snow off the higher elevations (usually in late June). Visitors should pack layers of clothing — and a raincoat.
“Just always know where you are at all times and be prepared for sudden changes in weather,” says Wildy. “Travel with a companion and leave an itinerary with a trusted friend. Cell coverage is very limited.”
In winter, a serious amount of snow blankets MRNP. In fact, nearly 56 feet piles up at the park’s Paradise area each year. So plan accordingly, with an excess of warm clothing even for drives and safety equipment for all outdoor adventures.
Begin checking for road closures in late September, as the cold weather intensifies and areas of the park start shutting down, including the entrances at White River, Chinook Pass, Ohanapecosh and Stevens Canyon Road. The park keeps Paradise open except during storms, but requires all vehicles to carry snow chains from Nov. 1 to May 1.
Note: Backcountry stays require a wilderness permit year-round, and climbers must get an additional pass to travel above 10,000 feet and on glaciers. Reserve ahead for visits from June to September on recreation.gov ($26 per trip).
Getting There/Overview
Visitors arriving by air typically fly into Seattle, Yakima, Washington, or Portland, Oregon. Self-drive options provide the most flexibility, especially since the park can’t be reached by shuttles or public transport. But there are day tours out of Seattle and her southern sister city of Tacoma.
The park can’t be driven across, due to that central, heavily glaciated 14,410-foot volcano. So visitors tend to orbit Rainier and take “spoke” roads into five primary areas. (See “Where to Stay and Eat,” below, when choosing which area to use as your home base.)
Paradise and Sunrise are the two most popular areas, since they open up alpine scenery without requiring a taxing hike to get there! But with that easy-access beauty comes large crowds during peak season. Parking lots in both areas can overflow by late morning on weekends and holidays. Travelers with flexible schedules often prefer to explore alternate destinations in nearby U.S. Forest Service lands and Crystal Mountain Resort (the National Park Service app can guide you). But if time’s tight and you need to visit during busy periods, try to arrive before 10 a.m. or after 2:30 p.m.
1. Longmire/Paradise (southwest): This region is convenient to the Nisqually entrance, and a popular base for park visitors.
2. Carbon River/Mowich Lake (northwest): This area shelters temperate rainforests, an inland rarity. The Carbon River entrance remains open throughout the year, but only to hikers and bicyclists. The car-friendly Mowich Lake entrance operates in summer and closes after the first snowfall, usually in early October.