Most of these technologies are earth-friendly, meaning you can reduce your carbon footprint substantially. But that’s just one of the driving forces behind the surge in energy retrofits among homeowners. “People want more comfort and lower utility costs,” says Scott Fischer, managing member of New Jersey company Ciel Power, which installs home insulation and other energy-saving upgrades. Though estimates vary, average energy costs easily top $2,000 per year.

There’s also the game-changing package of tax credits and rebates included in last year’s Inflation Reduction Act (IRA). Those financial incentives make now an excellent time to consider big investments to reduce your household’s reliance on the established energy grid.

These new tax credits include $2,000 a year for any combination of heat pumps, heat pump water heaters and biomass stoves and boilers; if you make investments gradually, you could claim the max each year on your tax return. Clean-energy tax credits for solar, geothermal and wind power systems can go even higher, and unused amounts can be carried forward to benefit you on future tax returns as well.

In addition to energy credits, the IRA authorized nearly $9 billion in rebates for upgrades that make homes more energy-efficient or shift reliance away from fossil fuels and toward electric power. These rebates, which will be administered by states, can go as high as $14,000 for low-income households and cover such things as a new electric stove or a heat-pump dryer.

Some crucial details remain unknown: What incentives will utilities offer customers to encourage improvements? How will states, which are to administer the federal rebate programs, deliver them to buyers? Which products will the Department of Energy (DOE) and the Environmental Protection Agency certify as qualified for credits?

And there’s the bottom-line question for homeowners: How long will it take for your lower energy bills to offset your after-rebate out-of-pocket costs? That depends on a slew of factors, such as your climate, the amount of energy you use, the heating and cooling systems you have now and utility rates. To help estimate that number, use the DOE’s ResStock analysis tool (resstock.nrel.gov/factsheets). And consult contractors who specialize in energy upgrades, since they can help evaluate potential savings in your area.

With that in mind, let’s tour the options for some big energy upgrades:

WHAT THEY DO: Convert sunlight into electricity.

COST: Rooftop systems run from about $15,000 to $25,000. Storage batteries can add $12,000-plus. In Florida, for example, a solar system plus storage battery ranges in cost from about $21,000 to $61,000.

AVAILABLE CREDIT: 30 percent of your investment, with no cap.

AVERAGE SAVINGS: About $1,000 or more a year, or between $20,000 and $75,000 over a system’s roughly 25-year life span, proponents say. Systems that let you sell excess power back to the grid on sunny days can help shorten payback time. Some utilities purchase so-called solar credits from homeowners to meet state sustainability goals.

MAKE MOST SENSE FOR: Well-insulated homes with unshaded south-facing roofs or yards, and owners with cash up front or an ability to finance.

KEEP IN MIND: Panel placement may be subject to zoning rules and permits. Buildings and trees can throw shade on your energy farm. Backup power will likely be needed on cloudy days, especially if you don’t have a storage battery. You’ll occasionally need a pro to wash the panels down. Your utility may buy power from you at a lower price than the one it charges you.

WHAT IT DOES: Working like a two-way fridge or air conditioner, removes heat from the air and blows out cool air in summer; does the reverse in winter. Moving heat rather than generating it, these electrically powered pumps are typically more efficient than conventional air-conditioning systems and furnaces. Systems can be centralized or deliver warm and cool air via individual “mini splits,” which allow for more localized control and are better suited for smaller spaces.

COST: Between $12,000 and $20,000 for a centralized system.

AVAILABLE CREDIT: 30 percent of the total, up to $2,000.

AVERAGE SAVINGS: Depends partly on what fuel you’ll be switching from. It could be $1,500 a year, for example, if you now have a propane furnace, the DOE estimates. The private research company Carbon Switch says you can save $637 a year in New York and $935 in Pennsylvania.

MAKE MOST SENSE FOR: Houses with aging HVAC systems in areas with rising utility rates. The colder the climate, the harder the heat pump has to work, and in some cases you may need backup heat.

KEEP IN MIND: Your overall utility bills should go down if you’re switching from fossil fuel, but your electricity bill is likely to go up. It can be a challenge to find a seasoned installer with expertise in electricity as well as plumbing. You may need ductwork, which will raise the cost. You should make sure your system qualifies for your utility’s rebate program before you buy.

WHAT IT DOES: Installed on the roof or on unshaded ground nearby, it uses the sun’s rays to heat water, which then flows into your regular plumbing. “Active” systems couple a collector and storage, and can be more effective in colder climates; simpler “passive” tanks work best in sunny climes. In most areas these heaters are fast being eclipsed by hybrid heat pumps (see below).

COST: $5,000 to $7,000 on average; up to $13,000, HomeAdvisor says.

AVAILABLE CREDIT: 30 percent of cost.

AVERAGE SAVINGS: If your backup is an electric water heater, about $280 a year over the roughly 20-year life span of the heater, according to the DOE.

MAKE MOST SENSE FOR: New homes, as the heaters can be more easily integrated with plumbing. They work best in areas where temperatures rarely fall below freezing.

KEEP IN MIND: In many areas you’ll need a two-tank system, or one in which the solar water heater preheats water before it enters a conventional water heater.

WHAT IT DOES: Like an air-source heat pump, uses electricity to move heat from one place to another, aided by fans and refrigerant-filled tubes. It can slash energy use by up to 70 percent compared to conventional gas and electric heaters.

COST: Up to $3,000, sometimes more, compared to around $1,200 for a tank-style water heater.

AVAILABLE CREDIT: 30 percent, up to $2,000.

AVERAGE SAVINGS: About $200 to $600 per year.

MAKE MOST SENSE FOR: Homes with aging water heaters, and a room at least 1,000 cubic feet in size and a constant temperature range of 40 to 90 degrees in which to place the heater.

KEEP IN MIND: Requires a drain and a 220-volt electrical source.

WHAT IT DOES: Heats and cools your home, and sometimes your water, using electricity and pumps to tap consistent temperatures of the earth belowground (45 degrees to 75 degrees, depending on your latitude) or a body of water. An efficient system can generate up to 4.5 times as much power as it consumes.

COST: $10,000 to $30,000, in general.

AVAILABLE CREDIT: 30 percent, up to $2,000.

AVERAGE SAVINGS: The systems cut energy use by 25 to 50 percent, compared with fossil fuel systems, and up to 72 percent compared with electric heating and standard air-conditioning. Lasting 20 years or more, the systems can pay for themselves in five to 10 years, depending on where you live and your utility costs.

MAKE MOST SENSE FOR: New builds, though homes across the country are being retrofitted with these systems.

KEEP IN MIND: Not all sites are geologically conducive; these systems may require drilling 100 to 400 feet into the ground. Installation costs vary enormously.