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How My Daughter Brought My Grandmother Back to Me

Grandma used to show her love through baking. When she died, I thought those tastes were gone forever. But I was wrong


spinner image a person with a rolling pin and faded recipe cards
Grandma Regina's beloved recipes — collected on fading index cards — helped to connect essay writer Candy Schulman and her daughter, Amy.
Sarah Rogers

From June to September during my childhood, Grandma Regina lived in her own apartment on the first floor of our house in Brooklyn. She summered in New York to escape the heat of what’s now known as South Beach, Miami.

When Grandma arrived, I’d greet her before she unpacked, watching her remove the tortoiseshell hair comb to free her curly locks. Time seemed endless until she fished out the annual gift from her suitcase: a pecan nougat bar and coconut patties.

An even better gift came every Sunday morning, when I’d awaken to the sweet smell of butter melting and see the cinnamon oozing. I’d dash downstairs to be sous chef to 4-foot-8 Grandma Regina. Those mornings, she wore her baking uniform: a shapeless housedress, high-topped black shoes and stockings rolled to beneath her knees. Her fingers always smelled like sugar and butter.

Grandma Regina had come to this country from Central Europe in her teens, and she spoke five languages. We were never sure which country she was from, since the borders had changed. But her baking was heavily influenced by Vienna. Her refrigerator was packed with rising dough balls in pottery bowls — to be transformed into rugelach, Danish and strudel.

In her kitchen, she’d extend a spoon full of sugary cheese mixture to me, the official taster. “Is it good enough for mine Danish?” she’d ask, her accent changing “my” to “mine.”

“I’m not sure,” I’d pretend, securing another taste.

Only Grandma could produce a perfect circle from the laborious process of rolling out dough. She let me spread walnuts for the rugelach and cut them into pizza-slice-shaped wedges. I loved to curl the wedges into crescents, but my favorite pastries were her streusel muffins: coffee-cake cupcakes with a crumb topping.

Packing to return to Florida grew more difficult for her each September. Sighing, Grandma would say, “Throw away mine pans. I’m too old to bake.”

“I’m not throwing anything away,” my mother — her daughter-in-law — would respond. “You’ll bake again.” Grandma was a master pastry chef, whereas the closest my mother had ever come to baking was opening the plastic wrap from Hostess Twinkies.

Still, as Grandma got older, my mother wanted to document her recipes. One day when I was in my teens, my mother and I sat down with a pad in the kitchen and started taking notes.

Reluctantly, Grandma measured flour and eggs, while my mother transcribed on index cards.

“I can’t say how much yeast to add,” Grandma insisted. “It depends on the weather.”

After Grandma died at the age of 95, we tried to duplicate her masterpieces, but none of the recipes ever worked. We’d lost her legacy of Central European pastries.

In my 20s, I inherited Grandma’s ancient muffin pan, slightly bent out of shape but full of sweet memories. Sadly, I was a one-trick baker, excelling at Toll House cookies, a skill I’d learned in college with my roommates when we were up late studying.

I had a cake phobia, worried I would overbake to the point of no return, and I could never master rolling out pie crust. And by the time I was raising a child and juggling a full-time job, who had time for elaborate baking projects? It was easier to pick up something from a local bakery.

My daughter never got to meet Grandma Regina, but I told her stories about the hours we’d shared maneuvering rolling pins, our hands dusted with flour. I taught Amy to make cookies, and from there she branched out on her own, first with simple achievements from kids’ cookbooks (zebra cake, a concoction of chocolate wafers and whipped cream) and progressing to perfectly layered cakes — never resorting to a cake mix.

Other parents worried about where their tweens were at night, but I knew Amy was at one of her friends’ houses, baking brownies, relatively safe except for minor finger burns, a hazard of the trade.

Years later, she and I tried a few times to re-create Grandma Regina’s recipes from my mother’s handwriting on fading index cards. They always bombed. Then one day when Amy was devouring baking blogs instead of writing a research paper, she found a recipe similar to Grandma’s streusel muffins. Amy tweaked it, making the muffins with pure vanilla extract and popping a mélange of berries into the mix for color and taste. It was the closest any of us have ever come to re-creating one of Grandma’s delicacies.

Initially, I mourned the loss of Grandma Regina’s recipes. But every time I watch my daughter measure flour with a digital scale — something Grandma could never have imagined — I’m reminded that the most important part of my grandmother’s baking was to show us how loved and blessed we were. In the kitchen, I’ll tell Amy stories about her great-grandmother or even show her a photograph or two. And now I am Amy’s assistant, sampling the tastes of my childhood — from a pan I saved from Grandma’s cupboard.

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