Mark Bittman's Of-the-Season Minestrone, Fish Fillets and Skillet Crisp

Warm up with a menu perfect for chillier days

Mark Bittman,

AARP

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Published October 29, 2024

Chef Mark Bittman's Minestrone, Fish Fillets with Seasonal Vegetables, and Skillet Crisp With Seasonal Fruit make the perfect meal for two.

AARP (Burcu Avsar and Zach DeSart, Romulo Yanes, Jim Henkens (2))

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Mark's Minestrone • Fish Fillets with Seasonal Vegetables • Skillet Crisp With Seasonal Fruit

I’m extremely lucky: I live on a farm that’s part of an organization run by my partner, which means I have most of the advantages of farm living without getting my hands dirty. But the largest of those benefits is eating seasonally via the farm’s CSA.

If that term means nothing to you, let me explain: “CSA” stands for “Community Supported Agriculture,” a now-standard scheme in which eaters (us) pay farmers in advance for a share of the season’s crop. The reward, in almost every year (I’ve been doing CSAs for 40 years and have only been disappointed once), is far more bounty than the original investment could possibly predict. More importantly, it's a guarantee that you’re eating locally and seasonally.

But you don’t have to live on a farm to learn to eat seasonally. Going to your local farmers market or farmstand or joining a CSA can give you those benefits. And seasonal shopping is even possible at chain supermarkets: just use your judgment and experience, and pay attention to where the food you’re buying comes from.

Of course, seasonal foods vary depending on where you live — Northerners are always shocked to find that tomatoes are out of season in the South’s summer, for example — but limiting fruits and vegetables from the Southern Hemisphere is a good way to start taking notice of your own seasonal nuances. Regardless of where you call home, you might be surprised at how much local produce there is in January, especially with the proliferation of greenhouses.

The recipes in this menu are written to encourage changing the vegetables and fruits you use with the seasons. No matter where you live or how you buy produce, I hope this menu inspires you to take advantage of seasonal produce — the most economical, environmental and joyful way to cook.

Mark’s Minestrone

The ingredient list for Mark's Minestrone is written to let you decide which vegetables to include based on what’s in season.

Romulo Yanes

Makes 2 bowl-size or 3 cup-size servings

Total time: about 45 minutes

My recipe for this Italian classic is based on how I learned to make this iconic soup from Italian home cooks: Learn the basic formula, then vary the vegetables at will. The ingredient list is written to let you decide which vegetables to include based on what’s in season at any particular time of the year — or which are long-storing, like onions, roots or potatoes. And it’s a terrific way to use up the odds and ends you have in the fridge. The instructions describe when to add them and provide cues to test for doneness. Like many soups, minestrone freezes well, so you might consider making a double recipe to sock a couple of bowls away for a rainy day.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/2 onion, chopped
1 carrot or celery stalk, chopped (or use 1/2 of each)
1 or two slices ham, prosciutto or cooked bacon (optional)
About 1 cup chopped hard vegetables (like potatoes, winter squash, parsnips, turnips, celery root or rutabaga; peeled if necessary)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
3 cups vegetable or chicken stock, or water
1/2 cup chopped fresh ripe tomato (or, out of season, use drained diced canned tomatoes)
About 1 cup chopped soft vegetables, peeled if necessary (like green beans; cooked, canned or frozen shell beans; zucchini or summer squash; or dark leafy greens like kale or collards)
Chopped fresh parsley or basil (optional)
Grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Directions

Put 2 tablespoons oil in a 3- or 4-quart pot over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and the carrot or celery. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the meat if you’re using it and cook, stirring until everything turns golden, about 3 minutes more.

Add the hard vegetables; sprinkle with some salt and pepper and the oregano. Cook and stir for about a minute to combine everything, then add the stock or water and the tomatoes. Bring the soup to a boil, then lower the heat so the liquid bubbles gently. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are fairly soft and the tomatoes break apart, about 15 minutes. (At this point, you can cool and refrigerate the soup in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Proceed to Step 3 and add the soft vegetables as the soup reheats.)

Add the soft vegetables and adjust the heat again so the soup bubbles steadily. Cover and cook, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are quite tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the fresh herbs if you’re using them, and taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve right away, passing the cheese and extra olive oil at the table for garnishing and drizzling.

Fish Fillets with Seasonal Vegetables

Consider the carrots in this recipe for Fish Fillets as a model for all sorts of seasonal combinations.

Jim Henkens

Makes 2 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

One skillet delivers the main dish and vegetable, each taking a buttery, fruity and pleasantly sweet turn in the pan and ending up on the same platter. Consider the carrots in the main recipe as a model for all sorts of combinations, starting with the three different seasonal variations. Or consider salmon and corn in summer, cod and Brussels sprouts in the winter, or sole and spinach in spring. To substitute thin filets (like sole, trout or wild salmon), cook over medium heat in Step 3 for a couple of minutes less on each side; peek inside early to assess doneness. Buttered rice, noodles, dinner rolls or mashed potatoes would work well with any or all.

Ingredients

8 ounces carrots
1 orange
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 sprig fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
8 ounces thick fish fillets (like sea bass, cod or rockfish), cut into 2 portions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup white wine or water

Directions

Trim, peel and slice the carrots into coins about 1/4 inch thick. Grate the zest from half of the orange, then halve the fruit. Keep the carrots and orange handy by the stove along with the remaining ingredients and a serving platter or individual plates.

Put 1 tablespoon of butter into a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. (This is a good place for a non-stick pan, but it's not mandatory.) When the butter foams, add the carrots, sugar, thyme, 1/4 cup water, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are crisp-tender and shiny, about 3 minutes.

Leaving the thyme sprigs behind in the pan, transfer the carrots to the serving platter or plates. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the skillet and turn the heat to medium. When the butter melts and the foam subsides, add the fish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until it’s golden on the bottom and releases from the pan, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until the fish is opaque inside and flakes easily with a fork but isn’t dry, just a minute or 2 more. Carefully put the fillets on top of the carrots.

Squeeze the juice from one of the orange halves into the skillet using a strainer or your fingers to catch the seeds and add the zest. Return the skillet to high heat. Add the wine (or water) and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Let the liquid reduce a bit, then remove the thyme sprig. Stir in remaining tablespoon of butter. Taste and add more salt or pepper and squeeze in extra orange juice if you like. Pour the sauce over the fish and carrots, garnish with the parsley and serve.

Variations

For Thin (or Thick) Fish Fillets with Tomato Sauce (great in peak summer or dead of winter), instead of the carrots, use 8 ounces ripe tomatoes in season, cored and chopped, or 1 small (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes and their juice. No need to add water in Step 2, but do add the sugar, as it helps balance the acidity and richness. Wipe out the pan before cooking the fish; you might need a little more butter. Instead of the parsley, garnish with chopped fresh basil if you like.

For Thin (or Thick) Fish Fillets with Dilly Potatoes (great wintertime fare), omit the thyme. Instead of the carrots, trim 12 ounces Yukon Gold or fingerling potatoes and chop them into 1/2-inch pieces. When you cook them in Step 2, add 1 cup milk along with the water, reduce the heat to medium-low and cover in between stirs. They’ll take another 5 minutes or so. When they’re ready, mash them in the skillet with the back of a spoon or spatula. Wipe out the pan before cooking the fish; you might need a little more butter. Substitute fresh dill for the parsley; add it to the potatoes just before transferring them to a platter or plates in Step 3.

For Lemony Thin (or Thick) Fish Fillets with Asparagus (perfect for spring), substitute 8 ounces asparagus for the carrots. After trimming, slice them as thinly as you like at a diagonal. They’ll cook faster than the carrots. Instead of the orange, zest 1/2 a lemon and add the juice and zest to the sauce as described in Step 4. Garnish with chopped fresh chives instead of parsley if you like.

Skillet Crisp with Seasonal Fruit

This Skillet Crisp With Seasonal Fruit Recipe can use whatever is in season — peaches, plums, pears, berries.

Jim Henkens

Makes 2 generous servings

Total time: 40 minutes

With a make-ahead, stovetop method that adapts to all sorts of fruit — fresh or frozen — you can have a healthy and seasonal homemade dessert all year long. And you don’t even have to turn on the oven. The variations provide two of many alternatives and a whole different topping that works on any fruit. While this recipe uses apples, you can use whatever is in season — peaches, plums, pears, berries or even bananas, mangoes or pineapple. And either skip the cinnamon in the topping or try cardamom instead. Cooking time is variable — just a few extra minutes one way or the other. And since the fruit is on the stove, you can check for tenderness frequently.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons butter plus 3 teaspoons (1/2 stick total)
1/4 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1/4 cup rolled oats
2 tablespoons unsweetened shredded coconut
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 pound apples

Directions

Put 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons butter into a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. When it melts, add the nuts, oats, coconut, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the topping is golden and crisp, about 5 minutes.

Transfer the topping to a serving bowl. (Or you can leave it in the skillet off heat to stay warm and grab another 10-inch skillet.) Core and chop the apples, leaving the skin on.

Put the remaining teaspoon of butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the apples to the butter and cook, stirring frequently while adding water 1 tablespoon at a time if the pan starts to look dry, until the apples are fully tender and a little saucy, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can make the components up to a day ahead of serving. Refrigerate them separately in airtight containers and reheat the apples in the microwave if you’d like.)

To serve, divide the apples into two bowls and scatter the topping over them.

Variation

For Skillet Blueberry or Blackberry Crisp, use fresh berries in summer, or frozen berries the rest of the year. Omit the ground cinnamon in the topping, or substitute 2 teaspoons lemon zest if you like. Instead of the apples, use 3 cups of fresh (or frozen) blueberries or blackberries. In Step 3, don’t add any water to the skillet; cook the berries until they just start to burst, about 3 minutes.

Recipes adapted by The Bittman Project for AARP.

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