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5 Reasons Why ‘The Cake Bible’ Feels Brand New For the 35th Anniversary Edition

Rose Levy Beranbaum’s 1988 tome revolutionized baking for home cooks, and the revision is just as exciting


spinner image Rose Levy Beranbaum holding piece of chocolate pie against pink background with outlines of pie cutters on it
AARP ( Matthew Septimus)

 

Most of us have experienced the heartbreak of a recipe gone wrong. Sometimes the muffins come out crumbly. Or maybe the cake collapses down the center. And for all the hard work and good intentions, we are left with a demoralizing combination of disappointment and dirty dishes. But Rose Levy Beranbaum, 80, has spent the better part of her career helping bakers avoid those kinds of mishaps.

Her classic 1988 cookbook The Cake Bible pulled out every stop to ensure delicious results. Throughout the massive book, Beranbaum offered hundreds of recipes with remarkably specific measurements, instructions and notes. She used weight-based measurements in addition to volume (an uncommon practice at the time, if a more precise one). She also often shared the scientific explanations behind her instructions, helping bakers of all levels troubleshoot and learn from their misfires. The book even introduced a new technique: the “reverse creaming method,” a simple adjustment to the way batter was commonly mixed at the time, has since helped countless home bakers to achieve perfectly flat cakes.

“Ever since I was a little girl, when somebody says something can’t be done, I’ve wanted to find out why not,” explains Beranbaum. In 1989, The Cake Bible won the James Beard Award for Cookbook of the Year (a prize known at that time as the Food and Beverage Book Awards, sponsored by the International Association of Cooking Professionals and Joseph E. Seagram & Sons Inc.). Beranbaum would go on to write many more books and win two more James Beard awards, eventually earning an induction into the foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America in 2004. “Beranbaum may be the most meticulous cook who ever lived,” wrote the New York Times in 1998. The Cake Bible, Epicurious raved in 2015, had “changed the way bakers approached their craft.” Perhaps Food52 captured the “classic” best when it offered readers one simple assurance: “You will not bake a bad cake from this book.”

 

The next chapter 

Three-plus decades after the book’s release, Beranbaum is still innovating. For The Cake Bible: 35th Anniversary Edition (Oct. 2024), Beranbaum revisited the influential original text, adding charming stories from the book’s many fans and relentlessly retesting old recipes to retrofit them for modern grocery aisles. She added new recipes, too — all held to the same meticulous standard she set so many decades ago.

“I used to not like being described as a food scientist,” says Beranbaum. “I guess I felt that was the antithesis of being an artist. But it actually enables you to be a creative artist; [people now] see how much control it gives you.”

In anticipation of the new edition, AARP caught up with the celebrated cookbook author about the book’s most impactful revisions and the culinary, cultural and personal shifts that inspired them. Read on for five reasons The Cake Bible: 35th Anniversary Edition feels brand-new.

 

spinner image Rose Levy Beranbaum in a kitchen, mixing powder in a bowl, microwave and kitchen supplies behind her
“Maybe it was a good thing we waited 35 years,” Beranbaum says about updating “The Cake Bible.” “We learned so much.”
Matthew Septimus

Baking has continued to gain recognition as equal parts art and science

Advancements like the availability of high-quality oven thermometers have made The Cake Bible’s precise approach more accessible. Changes to packaging, tools and ingredient availability are reflected. Chocolate previously wasn’t labeled with its cacao content, but now it is, making it easier on bakers to get more specific with certain flavors. And now, the added level of detail on standard packaging, chocolate or otherwise, allowed Beranbaum an additional degree of specificity in her revised ingredient lists. And that, in turn, offers readers even more consistent results — building on what set Beranbaum’s recipes apart all those years ago. After all, her meticulous detail was somewhat of a revelation when The Cake Bible was released. “People considered scales only for weighing their bodies,” Beranbaum recalls, noting how unusual it was at the time to weigh ingredients for recipes, especially in the U.S. “Now, I would say 90 percent of baking books now have not only weight, but grams.”

 

The baking aisle has more options — for better and for worse

The Cake Bible mostly refrains from recommending specific brands. “If the book could last 35-plus years, I don’t want to put things into it that don’t have as long a life,” Beranbaum quips. But even this conservative approach couldn’t account for the ways our groceries would change. For example, varieties of flour that didn’t even exist in 1988 have added more confusion for home cooks. “I didn’t even bother to put ‘bleached cake flour’ in the original Cake Bible, because bleached had always been all that existed as far as cake flour,” Beranbaum says. Since then, though, King Arthur started producing unbleached cake flour. “It really isn’t cake flour. It’s not made with the same wheat, and it doesn’t perform the way the bleached cake flour does.” To help ensure better results for her readers, Beranbaum tested all her recipes with modern ingredients, adjusting proportions and adding specificity to her ingredients lists where necessary.

 

Common baking tools have quite literally changed shape

Many cake pans today are two inches deep, while some vintage ones have a depth of just one-and-a-half inches. This means that the 1988 versions of the recipes don’t make quite enough batter to fill modern-day cake pans to the top. But is it really so bad to use a bigger pan than a recipe calls for?

Actually, yes. “If the pan is too big, the sides will shield the batter and slow down the baking. The resulting cake will be drier with a paler surface,” Beranbaum writes. So Beranbaum tested and adjusted the proportions in The Cake Bible’s revised edition to account for modern cookware.

In some cases, these adjustments to the book’s recipes yield pleasant surprises. The White Chocolate Whisper Cake recipe, for example, makes enough batter for exactly two 9-inch cakes for layering and three extra cupcakes, allowing the baker to taste his or her handiwork without slicing into the main event.

“Sometimes you can scale something down, but it gives you ridiculous proportions, like a third plus an eighth of baking powder or something,” Beranbaum says, laughing. “[A few extra cupcakes] was the solution.”

 

spinner image Book that says The Cake Bible, Rose Levy Beranbaum; picture of chocolate cake with roses on it on cover
"The Cake Bible" goes on sale Oct. 22.
Courtesy HarperCollins

Bake with Rose

Levy Beranbaum shared three recipes from The Cake Bible for AARP members to try:

Devil's Food Cake

A deep, dark and delicious cake paired with a delicious Midnight Ganache.

The Chocolate Domingo

I dedicated this cake to Plácido Domingo, to create a special recipe for one of my favorite opera stars. 

Apple Walnut Bundt Cake

The perfect fall apple-season cake that can be enjoyed any time of the year.

Public tastes have evolved. So have Beranbaum’s

The Cake Bible wasn’t exactly reimagined for today’s culture of instant gratification. (“What’s the term people always use — quick and easy? I want to do an article,” she says, laughing, “‘The Virtues of Slow and Difficult.’”) But the book did get a style makeover, accounting for the changing visual tastes of cookbook readers. The photos were updated. The layout was reconsidered, too; long recipes were shifted around to ensure they appeared on opposing pages, preventing readers from having to flip through the book with messy fingers.

“Maybe it was a good thing we waited 35 years,” Beranbaum jokes. “We learned so much about how you have to write, about how you have to organize.”

Recipes were updated for other kinds of evolved tastes, too. “Through the years, more people have said that things are too sweet rather than not sweet enough,” says Beranbaum. In some cases, she’s come to agree. The updated Devil’s Food Cake, for example, contains added unsweetened moist, chocolate-forward taste that’s a little bit less sweet.

“Sugar is the enemy of flavor,” says Beranbaum. “If you don’t have enough sugar, you don’t have a good balance. But too much sugar means all you taste is sweetness.”

 

spinner image Woody Wolston and Rose Levy Beranbaum wearing aprons that say Partners in Creme with mixer on table in front of them, kitchen supplies behind them
Rose Levy Beranbaum, right, says her husband, Woody Wolston, pushed her to revise "The Cake Bible.” "He was right. But I couldn’t have done it by myself. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.”
Matthew Septimus

A roster of new characters — and a lot of good stories — have earned their place in print

As Beranbaum’s star rose in the cooking world, her work earned plenty of fans outside of it. The Large Chocolate Domingo for Special Occasions, for example, was a hit at Beranbaum’s fiftieth high school reunion, making fans of such talents as world-famous cellist Daniel Domb. Meanwhile, actress Jennifer Garner has become partial to Beranbaum’s Chocolate Bread, touting the pound cake-esque recipe as a lunchbox essential.

These decidedly sweet anecdotes (and the corresponding recipes) all make it into The Cake Bible’s latest edition. But the most impactful new character in the book’s revision isn’t a movie star; it’s Woody Wolston, Beranbaum’s husband and one-time assistant.

“He was the one who really pushed me to revise the book,” Beranbaum says. “And he was right. But I couldn’t have done it by myself. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.” Wolston’s contributions to the book earn him several namesake recipes and shout outs — one prime example being the Sticky Toffee Pudding, the first recipe Beranbaum gave Wolston to test in 2005.

“It also served as a test to whether we could work together,” she writes. “The cake and our partnership have passed the test of time.” 

 

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